Normally I just post interesting photos with no explanation and let them speak for themselves, but I thought this might be interesting to those who wonder about the process.
With chemical print photography, you can go through a lot of paper to get a final image you want to keep. In this case, I made five prints before I got something close to what I wanted.
This can go on for as long as you want it to keep going on, until you run out of paper or chemicals or time. At some point I stop trying to overcook it and move on to another image. I will spend more time on an image I really love or where I am trying to learn something or achieve a particular effect.
These five images represent about two or two and a half hours of work in the dark room, including washing and drying the prints. Paper isn’t particularly cheap, either. These are some of the reasons many people stick to digital, along with the fact that dark room access can be hard to find as well. I get that. But this process is fun and rewarding for me, at least. On a computer you could do what I did above in a few minutes by moving some sliders around, I am guessing. There’s a camera app on my smartphone that can do this while you’re riding the Metro train. But it never looks quite as nice as it does on real silver emulsion to me.
Maybe in the future I’ll do some more “how it’s done” type posts like this.
This gallery contains 4 photos.
This gallery contains 2 photos.
I recently purchased a Holga stereo pinhole 120 camera which I found on sale. Holgas, like Dianas, are “toy” cameras, basically reproductions of cheap plastic cameras made in Russia or China during the Cold War, and now marketed as niche items for “lomography“. This particular camera uses pinholes instead of lenses, so it requires a tripod to use properly.
Click on each photo to see a larger view. In order to see the 3D effect, you must cross your eyes as you look at these. You should see each photo move towards the middle until they overlap and there is only one image seen. It helps to focus on the most distant objects in the photo until your eyes sort of “lock on” to the photo. This method of printing them in cross-eye pairs was the simplest way for me to print them without the use of a 3D slide viewer or any other equipment of that sort.